Fork
One piece attacks two things at once.
The habits, tactics and sayings strong players rely on, from first lessons to tournament play. Read one section at a time, then practice it in the Training Room.
Most games between beginners are decided by something one player didn’t see. A quick look at the most forcing moves, in this order, catches most of it.
Every check you can give, and every check your opponent could give you.
Every capture on the board, for both sides. Which pieces are unprotected?
What does each side threaten to do next move: win a piece, fork, or mate?
Short, forcing sequences that win material or give mate. Open any tactic to see the idea, play the key move yourself, then practice it on positions from real games.
One piece attacks two things at once.
A piece can’t move because a more valuable piece is behind it.
A pin in reverse: the more valuable piece is in front. When it moves, the piece behind it is lost.
One piece moves out of the way and uncovers an attack by the piece behind it.
Two pieces give check at once. Blocking or capturing can’t stop both, so the king has to move.
Capture or chase away the piece that guards something, then take what it was guarding.
A king boxed in by its own pawns can be mated by a rook or queen on its back rank.
A piece with no safe square left can be won by simply attacking it.
The ideas that decide games between experienced players.
One piece has two jobs and can’t do both.
Force a defender away from the square or piece it’s guarding.
Lure a piece, often the king, onto a square where it gets hit.
Also called a zwischenzug (German for “in-between move”). Before the expected capture, play a stronger move first, usually a check.
A piece attacks or defends through an enemy piece standing in its way.
Drop a piece between an enemy piece and what it’s defending.
No check, no capture, but a threat the opponent can’t stop.
Any move makes things worse, but you have to move.
Not every good move wins material right away. These ideas tell you which trades to make, and which to avoid.
Ahead in material? Trade pieces to make the win easy.
One bishop on light squares, one on dark. Often a draw, even a pawn down.
Pin it to win it.
A pinned piece can’t run away, so attack it again, ideally with a pawn.
A knight on the rim is dim.
From a corner a knight reaches only 2 squares. From the center it reaches 8. Keep your knights central.
To take is a mistake.
Not every capture is good. Before you take, check what your opponent gets in return.
Knights before bishops.
In the opening, bring the knights out first. The best squares for your bishops often become clear a move or two later.
When you see a good move, look for a better one.
The first good idea isn’t always the best. Take a second look before you play it.
The threat is stronger than the execution.
Sometimes keeping a threat on the board ties your opponent down more than carrying it out.
Passed pawns must be pushed.
A pawn with no enemy pawns in its way gets more dangerous with every step forward.
Rooks belong behind passed pawns.
Behind a passed pawn, yours or your opponent’s, a rook keeps more squares under control as the pawn moves up.
Spot tactics in real positions, learn the mating patterns, and see the classic opening traps.
Practice puzzles come from the Lichess open puzzle database (public domain). Every lesson and puzzle was checked with the Stockfish chess engine: each move you’re asked to find is the clear best move, and on a final checkmate any mating move counts.